A Milwaukee restaurant family has expanded to add a third location: Taco Stop now is open on the lower east side, at 1426 E. Brady St.
That’s in the plaza that also houses Walgreens, meaning the east side site has the rare parking lot.
The menu includes recipes from owner AJ Agiss’ mother that go back generations, he said.
The family is from Veracruz, along Mexico’s Gulf Coast; they immigrated more than 20 years ago, when he was 11. Both of his parents work at the restaurants.
“Coastal town recipes are made with very light ingredients,” he said — vegetable oil is used, not lard, and the seasoning is kept light.
“Our recipes are super light because where we come from is super hot and super humid,” Agiss said.
In the menu item called Mom’s secret enchiladas ($8.99 for three), for example, the filling is shredded chicken breast.
Instead of dried corn husks, plantain leaves are used to wrap the tamales ($5.75 for one large), Oaxacan style. The leaves help keep the corn dough that’s wrapped around the pork or chicken filling moist, Agiss noted.
True to the cuisine of Veracruz, the rice at Taco Stop is white, not ruddy orange. It’s made with corn and garlic, and the side of refrigerated beans is meant to be poured on top of the rice before it’s eaten, Agiss said. (Rice and beans are $2 each a la carte, or $3 to make a meal with a main dish.)
Besides those house specialties, the counter-service restaurant of course has tacos ($2.75 apiece), with meats including barbecue, carnitas, lengua, and ground beef, or bean for vegetarians. It also has avocado tacos ($3).
In addition, the menu lists chimichangas, chilequiles, burritos, quesadillas and other items.
Taco stop fries its own tortilla chips throughout the day and makes its salsas, a mild tomatillo salsa and a spicier red sauce.
The full menu and a link to order online for pickup or delivery is at eat-tacos.com, but diners can order in person at the counter. The restaurant has about 20 seats at new red banquettes, plus a waiting area.
The Brady Street Taco Stop hours are 11 am to 10 pm Monday to Thursday and 11 am to midnight Friday and Saturday, which is later than its other locations.
The original Taco Stop opened at 513 N. Chicago Ave. in South Milwaukee in 2016. The Elm Grove location, 12862 W. Blue Mound Road, followed.
A Taco Stop that opened in Bay View during the pandemic’s peak in 2020 closed about a month before the June opening on Brady Street.
Contact dining critic Carol Deptolla at email@example.com or (414) 224-2841, or through the Journal Sentinel Food & Home page on Facebook. Follow her on Twitter at @mkediner or Instagram at @mke_diner.